Intro to Mountain Climbing-Alpinism 101

Day 1 – Hike to Camp

7:30am orientation. After an initial meeting and equipment check, we drive from Seattle to the trailhead and begin our hike to base camp. This approach is very strenuous and can take from 3-5 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) You’ll hike through ancient forests and snow-covered alpine meadows, enroute to our base camp. After establishing our camp, the remainder of the day will focus on the skills necessary for the proper use of an ice axe, traveling in balance, self-belay, self-arrest, placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, as well as belay techniques.(D) 

Day 2 – Mountaineering Instruction 

You will begin the day by learning crampon use and climbing steep snow and ice. We then focus on the skills required for safe and efficient glacier travel including roped travel.. This will include the means for each team member to correctly tie into the rope including the proper spacing of climbers based on the number of team members.. After learning the proper techniques for traveling as a rope team, we will then make a short glacial “tour”, enabling us to practice and comprehend the day’s lessons. Discussions late in the day will focus on navigation with the use of map and compass. (B) (D) 

Day 3 – Summit Climb

After a pre-dawn wake-up and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today your group will apply the skills they have been practicing toward our ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of your group, it will take from five to eight hours to reach the summit. After enjoying the views and a snack, and absorbing your accomplishments, students will navigate and lead their team back to high camp, enjoying a well-earned rest. We will then break camp, pack up our gear, and head back to the trailhead. (B) 

1 Day Seminar @Snoqualmie Pass-Separate from the 3 Day Baker

8 AM-3 PM Drive to Snoqualmie Pass and go thru Knots, Anchors, Belays and Drop C Crevasse Rescue System

Baker 3 Day

Day 1-

7:30am orientation. After an initial meeting and equipment check, we drive from Seattle to the trailhead and begin our hike to base camp. This approach is very strenuous and can take from 3-5 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) You’ll hike through ancient forests and snow-covered alpine meadows, enroute to our base camp. After establishing our camp, the remainder of the day will focus on the skills necessary for the proper use of an ice axe, traveling in balance, self-belay, self-arrest, placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, as well as belay techniques. (D) 

Day 2 – Mountaineering Instruction 

You will begin the day by learning crampon use and climbing steep snow and ice. We then focus on the skills required for safe and efficient glacier travel including roped travel and self-rescue (prussiking) techniques. This will include the means for each team member to correctly tie into the rope including the proper spacing of climbers based on the number of team members.. After learning the proper techniques for traveling as a rope team, we will then make a short glacial “tour”, enabling us to practice and comprehend the day’s lessons. Discussions late in the day will focus on navigation with the use of map and compass. (B) (D) 

Day 3 – Summit Climb
After a pre-dawn wake-up and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today your group will apply the skills they have been practicing toward our ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of your group, it will take from five to eight hours to reach the summit. After enjoying the views and a snack, and absorbing your accomplishments, students will navigate and lead their team back to high camp. We will spend the afternoon going over crevasse rescue then relax in camp for another night! (B) 

Day 4 -Mountaineering Instruction and Return Home
We wake up and review Crevasse rescue techniques, including constructing and equalizing multiple anchor points and practicing rescue scenarios then descend to the valley where we will celebrate a successful trip and begin planning the next climbing adventure. (B) 

Itinerary Notes: BCAG makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner

Our recommended clothing system has four layers.

• Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (synthetic or merino wool)
• Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well.
• Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable.  (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
• Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)

These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.

Climbing Gear

• Adjustable Ski Poles
• Alpine Climbing boots Full shank crampon compatible leather, synthetic, or hybrid boot depending on climb and season.Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid and late-summer climbs on Mount Baker and in the North Cascades when conditions are expected to be dry.
• Alpine climbing harness  Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing and can be put on with ski boots
• Ice axe  Lightweight
• Crampons with anti-ball plate * Must be fit to boots prior to trip,
• Climbing helmet * Adjustable, should fit with hat on
• Crevasse Rescue Equipment Kit*:
  • 4 locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
  • 4 regular carabiners (e.g. small wire gate are recommended)
  • 1 double length sling
  • 1 single length sling
  • ! Cordelette 6 mil 18-20’(6-7 meters)
  • 1 12” Prussik or Hollow Block*
  • 1 Microtraxion & Tibloc*

Upper Body

• 1 synthetic T-shirt
• 1 long sleeve Sun Hoodie or shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
• 2 synthetic sports bras*(WOMEN)
• 1 soft shell jacket
• 1 Down/synthetic jacket with hood
• 1 Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
• 1 pair lightweight gloves
• 1 pair warm waterproof gloves
• Warm hat Wool or synthetic
• Balaclava/Buff
• Shade hat or Visor

Lower Body

• 2 pair med- heavy wool/synthetic socks Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
• 1 pair lightweight long underwear
• 1-2 pairs of underwear boxers/briefs
• Softshell pants 
• Shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips

Sleeping Gear

• Sleeping bag Rated to at least 20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
• Sleeping pad 1 closed cell foam and/or Neo-Air for extra warmth and comfort.

Backpack

• Internal frame pack 3500-4500 cubic inch capacity able to carry snowboard/skis

Miscellaneous Equipment

• Goggles and Sunglasses 100% UV protection with side shields or wrap around.
• Personal first aid repair kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, spare parts for bindings and batteries etc.
• Lip balm At least SPF 20
• Sunscreen At least SPF 40
• Headlamp lightweight LED
• 2 water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
• Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
• Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
• Toiletry kit Be sure to include WAG Bag or toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
• Bandana
• Hand wipes
• 1 small stainless steel thermos (Optional)
• Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

WILL MY GUIDE (OR GUIDES) BE?

We are small company who enjoy working together in the mountains as well as highly skilled professionals who hold current Wilderness First Responder certification and are proficient in technical rescue and evacuation skills. Our guides are dedicated to the world of alpinism, many having first ascents and hold professional certifications with the AMGA in the rock, alpine, and ski disciplines. The AMGA is part of the IFMGA, which is the international body of certified mountain guides.

HOW MUCH SHOULD I TIP MY GUIDES?

Tipping is considered standard practice in the guiding industry. Tipping amounts vary, often 10% of the course cost is a good rule-of-thumb,  so $20-30 per day per person/per guide is average that works well for the guides without a serious blow to your wallet. If you feel that the program was exceptional or substandard the tip can reflect that.

CAN I RENT EQUIPMENT FROM BCAG?

No, we recommend renting from Ascent Outdoors where they have a full selection of rentals.

HOW HEAVY WILL MY PACK BE?

You will be required to carry a portion of the group gear and food in addition to your personal gear. This should be taken into consideration when deciding what you will bring. A good rule of thumb is to try to keep your pack weight below 40 pounds, which will allow for extra items to be carried of the group equipment.

WHEN DO I NEED TO PAY THE BALANCE OF MY TRIP?

For Scheduled Domestic Courses and Climbs: Your balance is due 30 days from trip departure. Payable by credit card, check, Venmo or Paypal.

WHAT HAPPENS IF I NEED TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

If you should decide to cancel your trip, BCAG must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date we receive written notice. You will be assessed a cancellation fee according to the following schedule: 

90 to 31 days from trip departure – 50% of trip cost

30 days or less – 100% of trip cost

WHAT HAPPENS IF I WANT TO CHANGE THE DATES OF MY TRIP? 

Schedule changes are subject to a $100 fee per person up to 2 weeks out and $150 less than 14 days from the start of the trip and may not be possible. If conditions or circumstances preclude running a scheduled program we reserve the right to make the decision as to whether the program will be canceled, rescheduled, or an alternative provided.

WHAT HAPPENS IF BC ADVENTURE GUIDES HAS TO CANCEL MY TRIP? 

In the rare circumstance where we need to cancel a program you can reschedule without a fee or receive a refund on your deposit. If circumstances arise that force us to cancel a program that is already in progress we reserve the right to decide whether a refund or credit, at a prorated rate, will be issued. We are not responsible for cancellation fees or costs arising from your changed or cancelled flights, lodging, or other arrangements. We strongly recommend obtaining trip cancellation insurance from your travel agent.

DO I NEED TO PURCHASE TRIP INSURANCE?

BCAG highly encourages the purchasing of trip cancellation and travel insurance on domestic trips and requires it on international trips. Europeans and Canadians use it because travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delays, medical expenses and emergency assistance. To avoid any financial hardship that an unexpected cancellation or interruption could cause,

Trip Cancellation/Interruption costs about 5% of your trip cost and it’s worth the peace of mind! If you find that you are not already covered for any of the above circumstances you have options!

BCAG has an account with Global Rescue, the world’s leading membership organization providing integrated medical, security, travel risk and crisis response services to our travelers worldwide. They can provide you with medical and evacuation coverage.

https://partner.globalrescue.com/bcadventureguides/index.html

WHEN SHOULD I PLAN TO LEAVE A RETURN HOME?

We often get this question because most people need to know how much total time they need to take off work. Our Northwest trips begin at 7 am in Seattle on the first date of your trip. Therefore, you will want to arrive the day before your climb or course begins. Our return to Seattle on the last day typically extends into the early evening with the descent and drive back. We suggest you make a hotel reservation for the night of the last day or a late red eye flight to return home on the day following the end of your course or climb.

WHAT IF I WANT TO ARRIVE EARLIER OR DEPART LATER THAN THE TRIP DATES?

No problem. There is a lot to see and do in the Seattle area and we would be happy to recommend our favorite attractions, restaurants, and day trips.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY IN SEATTLE?

There are many other hotels nearby to choose from as well and suggest one that includes parking and possibly north of downtown.